How big the drop is
The US Department of Energy’s fueleconomy.gov compares city driving at 20°F with driving at 77°F. A typical gasoline car gets about 15% fewer miles per gallon, and on short trips of 3 to 4 miles the loss can reach about 24%. Newer estimates put the city loss at 10% to 20% depending on the model.
Hybrids lose more, about 30% to 34%, partly because a cold battery recovers less energy from braking. Electric cars lose the most in percentage terms: in mixed driving, efficiency falls about 39% and range about 41%, and roughly two thirds of the extra energy goes to heating the cabin. With the cabin heater off, the loss is only about 8% in efficiency and 12% in range.
Show the data
| Vehicle and driving | Loss, % |
|---|---|
| EV range, mixed driving | 41 |
| EV efficiency, mixed driving | 39 |
| Gasoline car, 3 to 4 mile trips | 24 |
| Gasoline car, city driving | 15 |
| EV efficiency, cabin heater off | 8 |
Why cold weather costs fuel
- Cold oil and fluids in the engine and drivetrain create more friction until they warm up.
- The engine takes longer to reach its efficient temperature, which is why short trips suffer most.
- Heaters, defrosters and seat heaters all draw energy. In an EV, the cabin heater is the biggest single cost.
- Cold air is denser, so there is more aerodynamic drag, especially at highway speeds.
- Tire pressure falls as the temperature drops, and soft tires roll with more resistance.
- Winter gasoline blends hold slightly less energy per gallon.
- Snow and slush mean slower speeds, less grip and, in some cars, four wheel drive, all of which add to the bill.
Habits that win some of it back
- Skip the long warm up. Idling gets zero miles per gallon. Most manufacturers suggest driving off gently after about 30 seconds.
- Combine errands. One longer trip with a warm engine uses less fuel than several cold starts across the day.
- Park somewhere warmer. A garage, even an unheated one, keeps the car closer to its efficient temperature.
- Check tire pressure every few weeks. Set it to the figure on the driver’s door jamb, measured with the tires cold, not the maximum printed on the tire.
- Use the oil grade in your owner’s manual. Many manuals list the grade to use in cold weather.
- Take off the roof rack or cargo box when you are not using it.
- Use heat where it counts. Seat and steering wheel heaters warm you with less energy than heating the whole cabin, and defrosters only need to run until the glass is clear.
Extra steps for EV and plug-in hybrid owners
- Preheat while plugged in. Warming the cabin from the wall before you leave means the battery starts the trip full, not already spent on heat.
- Lean on the seat heaters instead of the cabin heater on short drives.
- Plan longer trips with winter range in mind, not the summer figure on the sticker. Our guide on EV charging cost explains what each charge costs at home and on the road.
When it is not just the cold: if economy drops much more than the figures above, or stays low after the weather warms up, have the car checked. A stuck thermostat that keeps the engine cold, dragging brakes or a slow tire leak can all cost fuel. A check engine light always deserves a look; see what the check engine light means.
Measure it, do not guess
The dashboard readout is an estimate. The honest number comes from full tank to full tank. Log your fill-ups or charging in Badger’s fuel and charging log and it measures real fuel economy between full tanks, so you can see your own winter drop and tell normal from a problem. Our guide on real fuel economy explains how it works, and the fuel economy calculator does the math in your browser.
